Which oil filter is the best?

[OverDrive418]

So this debate has been going on in the car forums since car forums were invented by Al Gore 15 years ago, I figured I'd ask some real drivers their opinion and recommendation.:
Which oil filter brand is the best?

I've been using Fram Tough Gaurd for so long I don't think twice about it when its time to change the oil, but recently I've begun to second guess my choices since I've been changing parts on my car and finding out that even the little things can make a difference in how the car performs.

[engled]

Purolator filters and Castrol GTX oil on every thing I have ever owned for the past 24 years, I have had no oil related failures. Most of the cars I have owned have went well over 200k miles.

[EWaugh]

The thing to look at with an oil filter is, well, the filtration. The nippon filters I use are about a 4 micron filter. A Mann filter or a mhile is around a 6. K&N is around 3. I wouldn't run anything above a three anyway, but I'm not sure about the rest.

I like to change the oil when it's warm. When I do that the check valve in the filter should keep oil in the motor. After 8 hours or so, I wouldn't expect it to, however. I went through this with the Wix and had no oil in the motor when I pulled the filter. I don't use Wix anymore.

I have been using Royal Purple for a few years now. It is quite a bit more expensive, but if you read their website you'll see why, and I can vouch for it. I usually change the oil about every 8000 miles. The time before last it looked clean, so I decided I'd let it go longer. I was going to run it 10,000 and let Ricky do a sample to see if it even needs to be changed. But, I ran low and had to mix mobil 1 with it, so I just changed it. I do plan on doing that this time though.

I run their synchromax trans fluid too. Long story short when I replaced the clutch I had a honda engine builder crack open the case because, well, it had 160,000 miles on it. He called me and said that he had seen transmissions with 30,000 that looked worse.

When I turned 16 I inherited my dad's volvo. It started grinding into 3rd. We ended up selling it to Carmax. I met the guy who bought it, who was also running the same fluid. After 10,000 miles with that fluid it stopped grinding.

[chuck schultz]

After 10,000 miles with that fluid it stopped grinding.

Maybe it took him 10,000 miles to learn how to double-clutch. . .

[EWaugh]

No, I got to drive it, no more double required

[OverDrive418]

I've been contemplating going with Royal Purple EVERYTHING, so that's why I posed the question. It doesn't make sense to get premium fluids with a subpar filter. Kinda defeats the whole purpose!

[EWaugh]

I recently lost me source for the nippon filter. The one I put on was one I had sitting on the shelf. Last time I tried at the dealership they didn't have any either. I'm not sure where you'd find one locally. That's what I'd use on yours though

[Welacey]

I'm with Darryl. Have been using Castrol for 30 years now and my black 2000 Chevy truck has almost 200,000 miles on it and it does not burn a single drop. Hagler Auto in Montgomery did a heat test on Quaker State, Mobil, Pennzoil and Castrol about 4 years ago and the Quaker State was the worst (Bet you figured that one out). Next was Mobil, then Pennzoil, and Castrol was the best. They did not test synthetics.

[BoostedFD]

I've been using K&N and Amsoil and changing it every 8-10k on the past few cars I've had. The eclipse had 130k on it and never burned oil and that is with lots of AutoX's and a few track trips. The MS6 only has 40k on it so if it burns oil I'm going to be mad.

For the RX-7 I just use Mazda filters because they are cheap through MMS, and Valvoline Racing(because it still has the zinc and crap in it all the rotary people claim they need worse than piston engines, who really knows). It gets change after every track day or 2kish miles because of the blow by. Hopefully the new engine will be alittle better about that than the old one.

[TouringBubble]

I use WIX filters based on their bypass properties, which may be the same reason that Evan doesn't like them. It's my understanding that WIX filters (at least in my application) bypass later than other filters, meaning better filtration in extreme use. I believe it's a 5 micron filter, which is a little below the ones Evan listed.

But, I've also heard the RP rates quite poorly among synthetics, so maybe Evan and I are getting different information for different sources. Evan has been at this longer than me, so I wouldn't say that my opinion should be considered more heavily.

For oil, I'm with Chris. AMSOIL only here. They back up their claims with real data.

[OverDrive418]

What I've been using for years is Mobil1 full synthetic 5w30 and Fram tough guard filters.
I've never had an issue and the oil is a medium brown when it comes out for a change, usually about every 3-5k depending on how many meets occur in a quarter.

On one hand I don't want to screw with something if there's not a problem...but then again I don't know any different because I've never switched to a potentially better oil/filter combo.

Since now I'm putting more stress on the engine I want something I don't want to worry about that will help extend the life of the engine and protect the vitals a little better.

[EWaugh]

Here's a little data off the RP website. I didn't want to get into this too much to keep from sounding liek a RP salesman, or commercial or something, but here it is.

http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-performance-advantages.html

The film strength is basically how well it holds up under heat, and the bearing data is the reason that the trans on the teg is as good as it is, and why the volvo started working again.

The guy that started RP is the guy who was working on mobil 1. Mobil came and told him that they wanted it, he told them it wasn't ready, and they put it out anyway. He continued with it and start RP. Cars are only a small percentage of what they do. They do more with inustrial applications.

[TouringBubble]

And, in contrast, here is some AMSOIL data ... http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx. Notice that actual brands and blends are named ... not just noted as "leading synthetic." AMSOIL is pretty much the ONLY company that backs up their claims with independent tests with named competitors.

But, this is a debate that's been going on for years ... there is no right answer. Go with what you think is best. Some like RP, some AMSOIL, some Mobil1 or others.

[BoostedFD]

Main thing is that Synthetic is better than Dyno juice!!

[EWaugh]

And, in contrast, here is some AMSOIL data ... http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx. Notice that actual brands and blends are named ... not just noted as "leading synthetic." AMSOIL is pretty much the ONLY company that backs up their claims with independent tests with named competitors.

But, this is a debate that's been going on for years ... there is no right answer. Go with what you think is best. Some like RP, some AMSOIL, some Mobil1 or others.

I just wish they'd tested redline and RP too...But maybe they did

And the second one is also correct