Fuel line routing?

[TouringBubble]

That would be great John. My lines are either 3/16 or 5/32 ... not sure.

Looks like the options now are using that channel under the car or bulkheading with a piece of pipe on the inside.

[Cholewa]

where's the tank? Why not just relocate the tank to be closer to the motor?

[JohnW8]

where's the tank? Why not just relocate the tank to be closer to the motor?

He's gotta have SOME weight on the front wheels.

[zukitek]

where's the tank? Why not just relocate the tank to be closer to the motor?

thats pretty good heh....we dont want fuel lines in the passenger compartment but hte tank is ok

but seriously ...Matt go and buy a roll of aluminum fuel line and run it wherever you want ...the stuff is pretty cheap and extremely easy to form ,bend, cut , and flare .

[nicktcr]

thats pretty good heh....we dont want fuel lines in the passenger compartment but hte tank is ok

but seriously ...Matt go and buy a roll of aluminum fuel line and run it wherever you want ...the stuff is pretty cheap and extremely easy to form ,bend, cut , and flare .

I think the reason he's set on this is due to the fact that he already has it.

Matt, I think running it under the body in that gap where the body bolts go should be fine. I seriously doubt anything would get up there to actually damage the lines.

[TouringBubble]

Ricky, aluminum line isn't compatible with E85. I got the nylon line and fittings expecting to be able to run them through the tunnel like the stock lines, but it's looking like that's not possible. But, they are light, impact resistant and E85 safe, so I'd like to use them.

I'm with you Nick. No need to overthink it. There is a channel and the lines will fit there. Yes, something "could" get in there, but it would have to be something sharp and fast moving to cause damage. It'd be more likely to puncture the pan honestly.

[nicktcr]

Yeah you're gonna be doing major chassis damage if they get busted in that groove.

[zukitek]

my mistake...I didnt realize youd be burnign E85. By all mean dont use uluminum then.

[Cholewa]

Those nylon lines are pretty tough. The volvo has them and they withstand some serious abuse. I did tear one off attempting to remove the banjo bolt on my fuel filter, but that stuff is impressive. I wouldn't be worried about it breaking or tearing out at shag bark. You'd have to be in a bad situation to mess those up.

[w. leavitt]

Why not check with Farmer and see how he sets up his Ghias?

[TouringBubble]

He runs them with carbs, so I'm guessing he likely uses the stock line. I need more flow for E85 and a LOT more pressure for EFI.

I think I've got a good idea now though. The fuel cell will be in the stock tank area. Planning to relocate the battery up front too to simplify wiring and move the weight balance a little. Pump will be under the hood and I'll route lines in the lower channels under the pan. I might have to use both sides ... one for send and the other for return. Not sure yet. Those lines are pretty rigid, so I'm not sure I can fit both in one channel with some of the bends required.

[edtype1]

Matt..If its strictly for Rallycross, run braided outside the cabin. Heck it doesn't matter what fuel you use. Its flammable! You don't want that in the cabin with you if shit happens. Maybe even if your wearing a flame suit. In rallycross, its very unlikely....Don't over think!
It will be a royal PITA to run them through the channels. All that trouble for no gain. Keep it simple & neat.

[TouringBubble]

Going back to this topic, I think I have my routing figured out. I'm going to run the lines in the channel where the body bolts to the pans.

BUT, I'll need to shape the line a little. I've read where people boil the nylon lines to fit them over barbs and such. Anyone see issue with using a heat gun or similar to warm them and shape them in angles less than 90º? I just need a couple of bends to make them conform to the chassis and not hang down.

[Cholewa]

Going back to this topic, I think I have my routing figured out. I'm going to run the lines in the channel where the body bolts to the pans.

BUT, I'll need to shape the line a little. I've read where people boil the nylon lines to fit them over barbs and such. Anyone see issue with using a heat gun or similar to warm them and shape them in angles less than 90º? I just need a couple of bends to make them conform to the chassis and not hang down.

If they're anything like the stock volvo lines, so long as they are brand new, you need to heat them in order to let them seal, but once that initial heating is done, you can't reuse them. As for shaping them, they should be pretty flexible. Consider wrapping them with some sort of light foam or running them through a stretch of rubber hose and you shouldn't have anything to worry about with them bending around certain parts.

[jledford]

We put the nylon into form fixtures and then inject steam inside the nylon at a specified temp and pressure for a certain amount of time. The parameters we use all depend on the nylon, PB562, PB443, PB444? After that we cool them by pushing water through and then compressed air, the times for each depends on the set we need for the form and nylon used.

As for inserting the quick connectors or inserting a steel tube into the nylon we just flare the ends of the nylon and then force in the connectors using automated insertion machines. The connectors are dipped in a lubricant before the process.

Of course that's just how we mass produce nylon fuel and vapor lines for an OEM. That might be a bit more than you need to do for your one off application

Edit: To add something that might be helpful the heat guns work great for getting the quick connects back out of the nylon. They tend to overheat and melt the nylon and would be difficult to use for forming purposes. Again depending on the nylon used heating inside out or outside in can make a big difference.