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Advice on lug nuts and studs for girly cars

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  • Advice on lug nuts and studs for girly cars

    At the time trials last week i used my autocross real wheels, knowing that they get super hot since they are a solid design with no slots or holes for air to get to the brakes. Torqued the lug nuts with a torque wrench and after my sunday runs 2 lug nuts on the front wheels would not turn. Broke off one stud, another is damaged, both front wheels were hard to get off and the rear wheels came off like they always do. Anybody experience this? What about using anti-sieze on the studs? have read somewhere not to use ant-sieze on studs. Any recommendations on new studs and lug nuts? I'm guessing that this was a heat related issue. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.

  • #2
    Mine have done that before and it was heat related. Gaulded threads. After it cooled down they came off but the threads were getting mangled.
    I bought and shortened some ARP studs for the CSP car so they would work with my tuner lug nuts. Problem solved. The REAL wheels don't leave a lot of thread showing on the factory stud either. I didn't feel real safe with the wheels held on with 2-3 threads per lug.
    John W8
    CSP 10 Yellow Miata

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    • #3
      Originally posted by JohnW8 View Post
      I bought and shortened some ARP studs...so they would work with my tuner lug nuts.
      Ha, I did the same thing! I had some front stud issues last season that had me out the last two events of the year. One was broke and the others were getting mangled. So far no problems, though I haven't been switching wheels with as much frequency this year either.
      Last edited by OverDrive418; 04-26-2010, 05:07 PM.
      97 Civic HB - FSP Lucky#13
      "Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that's what gets you." - Jeremy Clarkson

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      • #4
        My front right didn't want to let go when I got home Sunday. Definitely the same heat-related issue. I got them off, but it felt like the tq increased at least 20 ft/lb or so from the others.
        Matt W.
        18 SM - Lancer Evolution MR
        15 MR - Volkswagen Beetle
        Sponsors: Satellite Racing - Defined Performance

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Welacey View Post
          What about using anti-sieze on the studs? have read somewhere not to use ant-sieze on studs.
          Clay and I have. Do we need to be educated on this?
          Charles
          TAC/TVR
          #72 SA rallyx Impreza 2.5 RS
          #74 "CSP" time trial Miata

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          • #6
            I think you can use anti-sieze on the threads but maybe not on the lugnut seat.
            John W8
            CSP 10 Yellow Miata

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            • #7
              Originally posted by JohnW8 View Post
              I think you can use anti-sieze on the threads but maybe not on the lugnut seat.
              I cant speak for every situation but I have used antisieze in both areas on a regular basis on my cars ans cars I work on everyday and I have not encountered any problem that could be attributed directly to the use of it on the threads and seats .FWIW

              RR
              Ricky R
              95 240sx with LS1 power. $4500 drivetrain in a $500 car
              97 miata pretty much stock

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              • #8
                The seat is what actually holds the torque in the nut.

                Lubrication of the threads only is a necessity.

                I have been using the same aluminum lug nuts for the past 10 years...keep them lubricated and they will last forever. cb

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                • #9
                  Might i ask what special type of lubricant you are applying to said threads?

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                  • #10
                    Never seize, or wheel bearing grease works, too. CB

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                    • #11
                      Thanks, Chuck.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chuck Baader View Post
                        Never seize, or wheel bearing grease works, too. CB
                        That is what I have been using, after my last broken stud.

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                        • #13
                          Wally, I ended up ordering from Jegs, they had the best price I could find.
                          Darryl E.
                          Blue Miata with ricer stickers.
                          Wizzer Motorsports

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Darryl.

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                            • #15
                              Darryl which ones did you get? Guessing the ARP's, but they did not list the rears for a 95. My fronts are different than the rears. I'm sure you double checked with Can't W8 on yours.

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