Shift light on the cheap

[engled]

We wanted to add a shift light to our CSP car but I was to cheap too even buy an el cheapo light from ebay so we decided to make one.


DIYPNP N76 with added voltage regulator for 99/00 Miata, this is what it looked like before we made this simple change.



DB15 female two row (NOT a HD15 like used on a monitor) and a few inches of wire ($1.98)



Hyperblue mad tight LED lights from Autozone yo… ($14.99 for two, you need one)


Find WLED marked on the board and connect to pin 1 (square solder pad) and find an unused +12v and connect to pin 2 of the DB15



Solder the black wire (ground) from the LEDs to pin one of the female DB15 and solder black wire with white dashes (+12v) to pin 2


Put the case together



When mounted it almost disappears but the lights are very bright.



Enable PM5/WLED in Megatune or Tunerstudio and set to come on at what ever RPM you want it to come on, to keep it from blinking as it comes on try 50-100 for the hysteresis

[zukitek]

and for your next trick...teach the RE how to fix his cell phone voice mail.

[TouringBubble]

Darryl, maybe you can help me with the issues I'm having ...

I've tried to set this up using the standrad LEDs just to test.

For one, the LEDs still seem to keep their initial function no matter what the output ports are set as. For instance, if I set it up on the accel LED, it still comes on with increased TPS and the warm up still comes on in warm up mode.

I've tried every possible combination or settings and can only get a quick blink of the LED. I can't get it to stay on while the RPM is > my threshold.

Also in reading the use of the hysteresis function, it should be set just below the actuation value. but you seem to have gotten it working by simply referencing a change in the value, not a set value. For instance, I tried "RPM > 6000 H 5980." I also tried the setup you have though with no luck.

Any thoughts? Did you run in to similar issues?

[engled]

I didn't have any trouble getting it working, what code are you using? My understanding of the hysteresis was that the number would when a change in output would occur, in my example the light comes on at 7200 rpms and stays on as long as the the rpms stay above 7150 this keeps it from blinking rapidly at ~7200. My current config also has a second condition "OR Coolant > 220 H 5 that could come in handy some day.

Send my you config and code version.

[TouringBubble]

I'm running the standard MS2 firmware. 2.905. I've still got the standard LED installed for now so I can test. I bought a ghetto LED assembly with a controller for flashing so the shift light will pulse. it's a 12v, but it's not currently connected.

http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=40447

You can see all of my issues/questions there. I'm confused on the hysteresis becasue the examples I found in the manual for coolant said to set the threshold to like 180 and the hysteresis to 170, not to 10. But if it works, it works.

[engled]

I have only used the MS2Extra code but I would think it is the same or close. I went back and looked at my config again, the hysteresis is set similar on all (fan H=5 and VICS H=100.)

[TouringBubble]

That was my original approach, but then I started reading and changed my mind. you having it in action means a bit more though.