Weight in on rule interpretation please

[Cholewa]

Meh

[aMaff]

The average autocrosser also doesn't usually have to deal with brake cooling issues. The problem with brake cooling ducts is that they move. The stuff LowesDepot sells isn't made to stand up to that sort of use and will fall apart in pretty short order. Spending $40-50 to do it right and not have to worry about it again seems pretty straight forward to me

[JohnW8]

The average autocrosser also doesn't usually have to deal with brake cooling issues. The problem with brake cooling ducts is that they move. The stuff LowesDepot sells isn't made to stand up to that sort of use and will fall apart in pretty short order. Spending $40-50 to do it right and not have to worry about it again seems pretty straight forward to me

Amen.

[TouringBubble]

I'm on board with that too. Mitsu spent a lot of time in a wind tunnel to set up the cooling on my car ... I'm not going to toss that out the window for what might make sense to me.

As C said, concessions for brake cooling for the Evo are made using the stock front undertray. The MR has a modified front undertray and extra "scoops" on the LCAs to feed air directly to the back of the caliper/rotor. These are 100% functional. I learned that the scoop on the right side of my car was broken recently (likely due to a unruly pylon) and had been for a while. It is evidenced in the state of my brake calipers after a few laps at TGPR where the right front rotor was completely black when I pulled off the track. The left rotor was just a darker shade of red.

The front undertray cools the brakes and the transmission and transfer case on the Evo. Sadly, many people remove it as it's a bit difficult to remove to work on the car. There is a basic misunderstanding in the Evo world that the tray is just there to keep water/rocks away form the engine. And then people wonder why they blow up transmissions at the track ...

Either way, I've got the stuff needed to make a new undertray for the car as I had to modify the stock one to fit the larger IC. There is an opening at the front of it now that I'd like to get rid of and I would also like to simplify the mounting design to make it easier to remove. I plan to post up pics and such during the build as some people may be interested in techniques for molding CF pieces at home.

[Cholewa]

It should also help create a pressure differential in the engine bay, to help leech hot air out, and keep cool air circulating. That's why if you notice, running without an under tray will usually lead to higher bay temps, and a lot of stagnant air.

I doubt the evo has as much of a problem since it has giant holes in the hood, but the volvo was a noticeable difference between no shield and a shield. Engine temps dropped, MPG increased, and it catches tools for me when I drop them.

[TouringBubble]

Yes, there is definitely a MPG change with it on. And you're right, most of the engine bay cooling for the Evo is via the hood vent. The louvered cowl there helps as well, and that's another piece many people remove for no good reason.

[aMaff]

I would also like to simplify the mounting design to make it easier to remove.

Dzus or cam-lock fasteners ftw here. 1 flat head scewdriver, a handful of 1/4 turn fasteners and you have it off or on.

[TouringBubble]

That's the plan. I honestly don't mind the crappy plastic ones ... just not the OE ones.

One section of the tray is kinda of throwing me off ... got to decide on a way to make it work or change how it mounts, meaning extending the tray back another 10" or so. May do both actually.

[engled]

That's the plan. I honestly don't mind the crappy plastic ones ... just not the OE ones.

One section of the tray is kinda of throwing me off ... got to decide on a way to make it work or change how it mounts, meaning extending the tray back another 10" or so. May do both actually.

I have a whole set of Dzus fasteners I didn't use if your interested. They did not suit my needs. There are enough parts for 10 plus a transfer punch.




I paid $42.00 for them, will take $24.69.

[TouringBubble]

Might take you up on it. I've got a couple of places that mount to metal though. Can these be made to work?

[engled]

I'm not really sure. You may want to a little research on them.

[aMaff]

Drill 3 holes in the Metal that it mounts to. 1 big one for the fastener, and 2 small ones for the rivets that hold the "spring". Same on the part you're mounting: 3 holes, 2 small ones to rivet in the fastener

[TouringBubble]

This would be a rectangular piece of metal. Do I need access to the rear of the mount? I would not have that.

[aMaff]

I don't think you would, but I'm no expert in these matters so I could be mistaken

EDIT:
Here, check this out:

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5029

looks like so long as you could use a pair of pliers to get the spring in place on the back side of the piece after drilling the holes and rivet it in place, you can do this without access to the back.

[AutoX Civic]

What size Griffin? I've got to pull off the bumper and see if I've even got room for the air feed soon.

Im not sure, its in Birmingham I know there are some pictures of the same size pipe in a pic of my engine on Facebook.